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Product Description:

65-70 days. This determinate variety was developed at Oregon State University. Their research shows that Oregon Spring will produce incredibly early yields of tomatoes when planted outside a month before your last frost date and given no protection except on frosty nights. Parthenocarpic. V.
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Customer Reviews

Based on 6 reviews
Susan B.
Wonderful, always

My husband and I are not tomato lovers, but we love Oregon Springs. Every year, from the Washington coast, to the high deserts of Wyoming, to Northern Idaho, over many years, the only tomato we grow and eat is Oregon Springs. I've grown them from seed outdoors to starting in greenhouses or in my sunroom. They are always reliable with tons of fruit. And at the end of the season, when I've gotten every one I want but there's still a few on the vines, I load up all the plants and take them out to the forest edge and the wildlife goes crazy!

Heather B.
Tomatoes in SE Alaska

Southeast Alaska: After years of planting tomatoes with poor success we discovered Oregon Springs. We start late February inside and transfer to unheated greenhouse late April. These are the only tomatoes that have ever worked for us. The first year we were picking tomatoes the end of July. The second year was wet and cool and we didn't pick until September 1st. However we did have a good crop, just later. So wonderful to have home grown tomatoes that have flavor,

Tom F.
Just about perfect for us

The Oregon Spring tomato plants really performed well for us grown in our garden, from seed that we grew into transplants. These are tough plants, as they recovered from some neglect on our part before being transplanted. We're located at around 1,100 ft elevation in NW Oregon, cool climate as we are in the foothills of the Coast Range.

The plants have been disease free, although we do take preventive measures to avoid blossom end rot, and we watch for late blight and treat accordingly. The initial crop of fruit was large for a relatively short plant. Very tasty to us, and even enough to put a few pints by. A winner for us that we'll grow again next season.

Linda i.t.H.D.
Good producer, healthy, taste was just ok

I grew a few different short season determinates this year, and these were very average as far as taste goes. Not bland, but nothing stands out. Not particularly sweet or tangy, it just tasted very tomato-y. I found it to be far more watery than any other variety I grew. The texture was good, not mealy or overly soft.
Positives: these plants produced between 25-40 tomatoes each, though they tended to be quite small, 2-5 oz. They ripened relatively early but not as early as I had hoped, as the main crop came in at the end of August, about 2 weeks after Early Girl Bush (which also tasted better and was less seedy and watery). The Oregon Spring plants stayed very healthy and nearly disease free right up through the last tomatoes ripening in mid Sept (now).
I might still grow 1-2 of these again, because they were very healthy and reliable, just not as many as I grew this year because I'm looking for something with a bit more kick, so I'll try a new variety or 3 next season. It's a perfectly good tomato and plant, just nothing terribly special.
Notes: Grown in 5 gallon fabric pots on balcony only getting about 6 hour of sun per day at peak, closer to 4 now later in the season, in the high desert of Central Oregon (@3500 ft elevation) with cool nights often in the 40's and record breaking highs in the 100's in late June. Mixed aged manure into the potting mix, granular once a month, and watered with fish fertilizer every 2-3 weeks.

Soil Temp for Germ 70-90°F
Seed Depth 1/4"
Days to Emergence 6-14
Soil Temp for Transp 55°F
Plant Spacing See below
Row Spacing 3-4'
Fertilizer Needs High
Minimum Germination 80%
Seeds per Gram ≈ 280-320
Seed Life 3 years

Lycopersicon lycopersicum The first ripe, juicy tomato of summer is a delicious milestone of the season for gardeners. Each year we test and evaluate more than 250 tomato varieties to bring you the most flavorful, best performing selections, for every desired use. An array of nutrients and antioxidants including the especially potent lycopene, found in its highest concentration in tomatoes, supports healthy eyesight, cardiovascular health, cancer-fighting capacity, and more.

Days to maturity are calculated from date of transplant.

Determinate tomatoes: grow compactly, sprawling laterally, usually do not require staking, and fruit ripens over a short period of time
Indeterminate tomatoes: grow on long vines, generally require pruning to 1 or 2 leaders that need to be trellised
• Fertile, well-drained raised beds covered with plastic mulch promote early growth and better yields
• Tomatoes are high feeders and will benefit from regular fertilization with Age Old Bloom
• To prevent blossom end rot use a high calcium amendment
• Overwatering can cause fruit to crack

Direct Sowing
• Not recommended

• Sow seeds in trays 6-8 weeks before anticipated transplant date; up-pot into 3-4 inch pots when the first set of true leaves appears
• Strong light and cooler temperatures (60-70°F) prevent plants from getting leggy
• Fertilize with Age Old Grow every 10-14 days
• When transplanting work in compost, 1/2 cup of TSC's Complete fertilizer, and handful of bone meal
• Determinates can be spaced 18-24 inches apart, indeterminates 24-36 inches apart
• Tomatoes can be buried up to the top 2 sets of leaves
• Use Kozy-Coats or Victorian Bell Cloches to protect young plants

Insects & Diseases
Common insects: Flea beetles and tomato hornworms
Insect control: Pyrethrin or row cover for flea beetles, and Monterey B.t. for tomato hornworms
Common diseases: Early and late blight
Disease prevention: A strict 3-4 year rotation, remove vines at the end of the year, fungicide

Harvest & Storage
• Harvest when fully ripe, do not refrigerate for best flavor
• Green fruit should be ripened in a cool, dark area; make sure fruit are not touching

• HR indicates high resistance.
• IR indicates intermediate resistance.
• Aal | Alternaria Stem Canker
• AB | Early (Alternaria) Blight
• B | Bacterial Wilt
• F* | Fusarium Wilt
• FOR | Fusarium Crown and Root Rot
• L | Gray Leaf Spot
• LB* | Late Blight
• LM* | Leaf Mold
• N | Roundworm | Nematode
• PL | Corky Root Rot
• PST | Bacterial Speck
• RK | Root-Knot
• TMV | Tobacco Mosaic Virus
• ToANV* | Tomato Apex Necrotic Virus
• ToMV* | Tomato Mosaic Virus
• TSWV | Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
• TYLCV | Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus
• V* | Verticillium Wilt
* Numbers and letters indicate specific disease race.

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