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DAZZLING BLUE

DAZZLING BLUE

Product Description:

50-60 days. This Oregon-bred variety is a striking twist on the strap-leaf style kales. It sports puckered, brilliant blue-green leaves highlighted with shocking pink midribs. Along with its showy appearance, Dazzling Blue proves to be especially cold tolerant. Bred by Hank Keogh.
  • Key Features:

ORGANIC SEED

$4.75

$4.75

  • Key Features:

Customer Reviews

Based on 3 reviews
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J
Jessica J.
Best Kale I've Ever Grown

Excellent germination, wonderful heat and cold tolerance, outgrew all the other kale in my garden! Looks beautiful and is super tasty, winner all around.

C
Candace
Beautiful, Resilient, Delicious

Western Washington, Zone 8b. This showy Kale grew well with very little attention. Planted in the Spring and is still looking strong as an overwintered plant. An occasional cabbage worm and a cluster of aphids could be found during the summer, but more resistant to those common brassica pests than other Kale I've grown.

E
Erin I.
Beautiful plant

I love this kale - the pink stripe down the center is gorgeous. It took off quickly in my fall garden and has continued to produce beautifully through the winter (zone 9b)

Soil Temp for Germ 55–75°F
Seed Depth ¼"
Seed Spacing 4–6"
Days to Emergence 5–17
Thin Plants to 12–24"
Row Spacing 18–36"
Fertilizer Needs Medium
Minimum Germination 75%
Seeds per Gram ≈ 300
Seed Life 3 years

Brassica oleracea, Acephala Group: Fast becoming known as the "Queen of Greens", kale is one of the healthiest vegetables on earth. Kale is a true super food rich in carontenoids and flavonids, which are two powerful antioxidants that protect our cells from free radicals and are reported to specifically fight against the formation of cancerous cells. One cup of kale has just 36 calories, zero grams of fat, a whopping 684% of RDA of K, 206% of A, and 134% of C vitamins.

Days to maturity are calculated from date of direct seeding; subtract 15 days if transplanting.

Culture
• Kale is a cool-season crop that performs best in spring and fall
• In wet climates, ensure adequate plant spacing to reduce pest and disease issues

Direct Sowing
• Cover seed with loose soil, vermiculite, or sifted compost and water evenly
• Sow June—July for a fall crop

Transplanting
• Start indoors 4-6 weeks before anticipated transplant date
• Work in 1/2 cup of TSC's Complete fertilizer around each plant
• Start May—July for transplanting June—August for a fall crop

Insects & Diseases
• Common insects: See Brassica Insect Information below
• Common diseases: Leaf spot, black rot, fungal diseases, mold, mildew, club root
• Disease prevention: Dispose of diseased material, proper crop rotation of 3-4 years, apply Zonix for mildews

Harvest & Storage
• Harvest leaves from the bottom up at any size
• Cool weather and frost brings out best flavor
• Store at 36°F and 95% relative humidity

Brassica Insect Information
Aphids: Control aphids with ladybugs or a hard spray of water or Pyrethrin. Also, select varieties that mature later in the season when aphid populations decline.
Cabbage worms, loopers, and root maggots: The first sign of cabbage worms will be off-white butterflies fluttering near the plants. They lay their yellowish-colored eggs on the undersides of leaves, which hatch into caterpillars that can cause severe root and head damage. To control light infestations, spray plants with Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.). For heavy infestations, bait cabbage worms by mixing wheat bran into a B.t. solution. Add 1 tablespoon of molasses. Broadcast the bran mixture around the base of plants. Reapply as necessary. Using Reemay or Summer Insect Barrier can also provide control.
Flea beetles: Flea beetles chew tiny pinholes in leaves. Early control is essential to minimize the damage. Spray infected plants with Pyrethrin. Using floating row covers such as Summer Insect Barrier can also provide control.
Symphylans: In some areas of the US, symphylans (also known as garden centipede) can severely impede the plant growth of many crops. Only 1/4 inch long, white, and very active, they eat the root hairs of developing plants. Using larger transplants helps reduce damage. Contact your local county extension agent if you suspect you have a problem.

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