KOSMIC
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Customer Reviews
This kale is OK because it is perennial and I like to grow vegetables that don't have to be replanted every year, however, it seems to be a worm magnet. I have this kale and regular curly kale planted within four feet of each other, even though I had the Kosmic kale covered it looks like swiss cheese and the uncovered curly kale has not been touched. I also think the Kosmic kale has a sharper taste than other kale.
Love this plant. I bought two a couple years ago. I planted them in different locations to hedge my planting. Glad I did. One of the plants eventually succumbed to aphid and pest pressure unfortunately, but the other has survived aphids, and deer, and our constant grazing.
The deer occasionally finding their way into our fenced backyard has actually seemed to make this thing more vigorous. Every time they nibbled the top the plant just sprouted a bunch of branches and took off. Now I've got a couple of Kale bushes.
Every year some amount of aphids find it, this year the thing is so bushy and large they dont seem to be hurting it at all and I have seen many aphid wasps on the leaves of my jerusalem artichoke.
I've tried propagating via cuttings early on but I think it was just too young and the growth too little to actually make it. I plan on trying cuttings again soon as I would like to get a couple more going so I can cut back the mother that's getting a bit too large.
I watered the plant sporadically the first year and a half but have since stopped. Once it's established I seldom seem to need to water and it still grows like mad. This is partly thanks to the heavy clay soil I have. Between the water retention of the clay and the kale shading the surrounding soil from the sun I don't seem to need to water.
Highly recommend this one both for the pretty foliage, and for eating. If you top it like the deer have on mine and let all of the new growth just go, you get a lot of smaller leaves which might be better for salad. If you can keep on top of harvesting it and have fewer leaves, the plant will put more energy into those fewer leaves/stems and create larger leaves that might be better for juicing... It doesn't like to flower and set seed but I have somehow gotten it to do so in my third year. It can definitely set seed but very infrequently and it doesn't seem to affect the flavor of the rest of the plant as bolting lettuce does.
Grows fast, not bothered by aphids as the weather warms like other kales. be sure to leave plenty of room, by the end of year 1 the plan was about 2 ft high and took up about 2ft by 2ft of space. The leaves are mild and when young great in salads and the older leaves are awesome in stir-fry and soup. Its's fairly cold tolerant - withstood 2 sinters with lows in the 20s but this winter most of it died back when it got into the low teens. At's also a very attractive plant.
Zone 8b, western WA. Planted 2 of these in one of my raised beds 2 years ago. Haven't actually eaten it, but it looks great. Going to have to move it because it's taking up too much space. Wish me luck!!
| Soil Temp for Germ | 55–75°F |
| Seed Depth | ¼" |
| Seed Spacing | 4–6" |
| Days to Emergence | 5–17 |
| Thin Plants to | 12–24" |
| Row Spacing | 18–36" |
| Fertilizer Needs | Medium |
| Minimum Germination | 75% |
| Seeds per Gram | ≈ 300 |
| Seed Life | 3 years |
Brassica oleracea, Acephala Group: Fast becoming known as the "Queen of Greens", kale is one of the healthiest vegetables on earth. Kale is a true super food rich in carontenoids and flavonids, which are two powerful antioxidants that protect our cells from free radicals and are reported to specifically fight against the formation of cancerous cells. One cup of kale has just 36 calories, zero grams of fat, a whopping 684% of RDA of K, 206% of A, and 134% of C vitamins.
Days to maturity are calculated from date of direct seeding; subtract 15 days if transplanting.
Culture
• Kale is a cool-season crop that performs best in spring and fall
• In wet climates, ensure adequate plant spacing to reduce pest and disease issues
Direct Sowing
• Cover seed with loose soil, vermiculite, or sifted compost and water evenly
• Sow June—July for a fall crop
Transplanting
• Start indoors 4-6 weeks before anticipated transplant date
• Work in 1/2 cup of TSC's Complete fertilizer around each plant
• Start May—July for transplanting June—August for a fall crop
Insects & Diseases
• Common insects: See Brassica Insect Information below
• Common diseases: Leaf spot, black rot, fungal diseases, mold, mildew, club root
• Disease prevention: Dispose of diseased material, proper crop rotation of 3-4 years, apply Zonix for mildews
Harvest & Storage
• Harvest leaves from the bottom up at any size
• Cool weather and frost brings out best flavor
• Store at 36°F and 95% relative humidity
Brassica Insect Information
Aphids: Control aphids with ladybugs or a hard spray of water or Pyrethrin. Also, select varieties that mature later in the season when aphid populations decline.
Cabbage worms, loopers, and root maggots: The first sign of cabbage worms will be off-white butterflies fluttering near the plants. They lay their yellowish-colored eggs on the undersides of leaves, which hatch into caterpillars that can cause severe root and head damage. To control light infestations, spray plants with Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.). For heavy infestations, bait cabbage worms by mixing wheat bran into a B.t. solution. Add 1 tablespoon of molasses. Broadcast the bran mixture around the base of plants. Reapply as necessary. Using Reemay or Summer Insect Barrier can also provide control.
Flea beetles: Flea beetles chew tiny pinholes in leaves. Early control is essential to minimize the damage. Spray infected plants with Pyrethrin. Using floating row covers such as Summer Insect Barrier can also provide control.
Symphylans: In some areas of the US, symphylans (also known as garden centipede) can severely impede the plant growth of many crops. Only 1/4 inch long, white, and very active, they eat the root hairs of developing plants. Using larger transplants helps reduce damage. Contact your local county extension agent if you suspect you have a problem.
